Living here in Germany - an American's take on some of our differences (and similarities)

Let me start this post by telling you about a recent incident on the tram.  Me and 5 American gal pals were off to American Nails to have a pedicure. (I promise this is not all we do and I have not had a real pedicure in a year and a half, so no judgement, please.) We were celebrating back-to-school as all mothers do! Well, on our tram ride home, we were talking in our normal American voices. If you have not been here before, I will let you know something. Our normal American voices are considered VERY LOUD. And I wrote that in all caps for a reason. At restaurants, we have been told we are too loud. On the tram and bus, we get "the look." But I think this is the first time I have experienced personally the very demonstrative gesture. I wish I had a video, but this older gentleman, after a friend turned around to talk to me, made an expansive exasperated gesture with his arms, a disgusted noise, and then got up and moved to another part of the tram! All because we were talking. And really, I promise, it is not that loud. (Although, the silence on the rest of the tram makes you feel like it is. I think it is an unwritten rule that you speak in a very low voice on the tram - like facing forward in an elevator.) Well, it was soooo funny, we all laughed - and that WAS loud! 

Also, I had to readjust to people being a bit rude again with the beginning of school and the drop off and pick up. The horn honking that occurs at drop-off and pick-up drives me crazy!!!  These people KNOW there is going to be a back up in traffic and that there is NOTHING we can do to make the car line go faster. They still honk and still look at you like you are a CRIMINAL for driving your child to school as they finally inch past you after scaling the sidewalk. Now, normally I don't drive the boys to school, but Zee is a slow mover and I have been giving him this first week to adjust. But it is still allowed - I mean, I can drive him to school when I want, this street will ALWAYS be backed up during school drop-off and pick-up. I want to yell out TAKE ANOTHER STREET!!!  But instead I smile and wave and turn on my Southern charm in an attempt to lower my own blood pressure and annoyance level. I tell everyone the story of sitting at that red light in Clemson through 3 red lights before I finally put the van in park, got out and walked up to the sweet little old lady with the line of 10 cars backed up behind her. I literally walked to the point she needed to pull forward to in order to activate the light. Not one person honked. No one yelled. No one used expansive finger or arm gestures. And we were finally able to go on our merry way.

I was speaking today with a German friend here who has just moved back after being in the US for several years. She mentioned to me it is embarrassing to her to hear stories of how rude Germans are, to hear of the bullying in the schools, and to hear of the racism (a variety exists, but the Turkish people are a large target, as are the Polish). At that point, I felt called to reassure her that sadly, people like that are EVERYWHERE. I did not think it reflected upon her, and one of my first dear friends here was German. Our neighbors are all WONDERFUL German people. I confessed I was from the Southern part of the US - and sadly she immediately understood. I explained that I understood what it was like to have a reputation just by the very fact that you are from a certain part of the country. My friend from the Czech Republic said that she used to think all Americans were overweight and sitting in front of the TV all the time. All these stereotypes we build in our head - there are certainly elements of truth in them. That is how the ideas gain traction. But for the most part, they are exaggerations of how people are - and there are so many of us fighting those stereotypes, attempting to temper the ignorance with a little knowledge.

BIG BREAK

I wrote the above last September, but realized I never published it. Woops! So I'm publishing today while I am playing blog catch-up with another sick kid at home. I don't really have much to add, except I keep thinking about these things having just been back to the USA. And I am so grateful for the opportunity to meet and make friends from all these different cultures - what a privilege to have my heart and mind opened to new ideas and thoughts and people. I am blessed and thankful.

I threw in some pictures from last fall - because what is a post without photos? :-)

Us at an Oktoberfest party

Does the bag give it away? Brussels, Belgium for a day trip with Carin. (We are totally being American tourists here, sports shoes and cargo shorts!)

Where we spend a lot of our time - on the pitch! (Silas is near the front in orange shoes and black leggings with the white jersey.)

Celebrating Silas's 13th birthday at our favorite local Italian restaurant, La Bruschetta!

Christmas Markets in Germany

This post is being written with a little bit of planning and a lot of haste. I am presenting at our school's Tuesday Morning Club next week about Christmas Markets. I thought it would be easier just to share about them via my blog and I will be able to share with you, future traveler to Germany and family and any potential visitor during this season, as well as those who live here now. Christmas markets are something I LOVE about the Christmas season here. They do not have Thanksgiving here, and now that St. Martin's is over (another blog post about that, I believe), they are decorating and gearing up for Christmas everywhere.

Last year there was a touch more magic to the Christmas market season because we were able to attend a few Christmas markets in the SNOW. This was at the beginning of all of the glorious white stuff, so it was still quite magical. (It lost its power when it was still snowing in April. We had literally one small snow the year before!!) We attended the Düsseldorf market and the market at Schloss Dyck in the snow and FREEZING temperatures. Just be truly prepared, stock up on the Glüwhein or Kinderpunsch, and dress warmly!!! 

Düsseldorf usually has one of the first markets to open, so it is always the one I go to first.  Because of all the construction going on downtown, this market is divided up into lots of little markets with themes. It is nice, but certainly not my favorite (and not just because my wallet was stolen there last year.) It does have its moments, however, plus a really nice big Ferris Wheel to watch it all from high above.

A typical stall at the Düsseldorf market

This felt like Narnia!

My oldest at the market.

Never thought I would capture the cartwheeler in snow!

People decorate with these paper stars in their windows for Christmas - so I had to get one!

The infamous smokers!

The cool trees that provide shade in the summer and just look funny in the winter.

Because of the size of the Düsseldorf market, you can find a great variety of items - it is just really spread out. Thus making it more difficult to find the good stuff. We went to this market with a good friend visiting last year (thanks for making time to see us, Rob!) and enjoyed the roasted chestnuts and Glüwhein in the cold. 

Later that weekend we went to one of my favorite markets, Schloss Dyck. It is extra special because it has a Krippenspiel. What is that, you may ask? Basically, it is a live Nativity! But not the kind you just come and see the Nativity - instead, we walked through candle-lit woods to come upon Mary & Joseph heading to Bethleham. Then you meet an Angel sharing news with the shepherds. Further down the road, you run right into the wise men. Then finally, baby Jesus with Mary and Joseph in the stable in Bethleham - singing traditional German Christmas hymns! (For a taste of that, go here.) The castle is cast in softly changing lights to your left the entire walk. It honestly feels a little magical - and last year in the snow??  Even more so. The vendors at Schloss Dyck are great, too. French soaps, homemade woodworks, knit items - I felt like they were a bit more unique than what I saw at Düsseldorf. But it is only open for 3 weekends, so take advantage while you can!

We arrived to a gorgeous sunset.

This is how you need to dress.

It was a heavy wet snow - and it was beautiful at this palace in the woods.

Lots of lights, fires, candles, lasers...

This is Mary and Joseph - the trek to Bethlehem was especially cold that year.

Gregorian chanting accompanies the sudden appearance of the angel. (Prepare your little ones - in the dark this can be quite suddenly startling!)

Winter wonderland!

They were freezing...the other boy was already at the car!!!

Schloss Burg is another one of my favorite markets. It is only one weekend, and this year it falls on Thanksgiving weekend. Not the best timing for us Americans celebrating over the weekend, but if you can make it, it is well worth the little drive. The coolest thing about this market is not only that it is within the castle walls - it is INSIDE the CASTLE!!  I didn't take many pictures because I was trying to keep up with the rowdy crew I was with, but it was so neat to move from room to room in the castle, down narrow outdoor passageways and winding staircases, through bedrooms and meeting rooms. The vendors had some great items, and it was a fantastically fun time. Some really good lunch food as well!

Need dental tools anyone???

Schloss Burg 

A great find for her little one!

Inside the chapel at Schloss Burg - better in person, I promise.

The only other market I have visited is in Essen. It is a great market, a lot of variety, easy to get to (just take a regional train to Essen or park at the Essen Hbf), and apparently beautiful at night. I went during the day, so missed all the lights at night, although they did look like they would be nice during the day. This market is great because of its vendors - you can get some legit shopping done here, making it a worthwhile market just for that alone. (They had a medieval market, with people dressed and cooking medieval food, selling products. Very cool.)

I intend to go to a few more markets this year (Aachen, Koln, Oberhausen). But sometimes illness gets in the way and I have to resign myself to just the little local one in Kaiserswerth - but at least they have the Glüwhein! Invite a friend and enjoy the markets!

More things I like about living here

Yes, it is time for a long overdue post.  I have been thinking a lot lately about living here in Germany, and honestly what I like about it.  When we first got back here this summer, I was SOOOO homesick - much worse than when we first moved here last year.  ( I guess there was so much to do then, and with no car, I spent a lot of time on the bus or tram going to and fro - which had its own element of "new" about it.)  But now, as we close in on another return to the US, and recognizing that after this trip, it will probably be a year before we go back, I am realizing all the things I really like like about living here. 

We may be at the half-way point of our time here (which I cannot believe), so I have also been thinking about what I will miss leaving here.

A few MORE things I like about living here:

1 - The bike paths - I can bike to the kids' school, no problem, and barely even touch the road.  And although we live in a big city, we really live in a small town within the city, very similar to Clemson.  But they have bike paths EVERYWHERE here.  It is soooo nice, and makes bike riding so much more enjoyable and actually functional.  I love biking to my book club, or a meeting at K5 (local coffee shop), or a school function, etc.  

Okay - so this is from our bike tour in Paris.  But who takes a picture when they are doing "every day" bike riding?  Plus, how cute is this kangaroo bike??

2 - The travel - Living here has given me the travel bug - not that I didn't have it before.  I just never acted on it before.  But we really feel this urgency to take advantage of our situation here and have seen some amazing things.  Hard to pinpoint my favorites, but I loved our recent excursion to Normandy and Paris.  I think when we move back to the States, I may need to roam around a bit more.

Zee is trying to wink here.

Burg Eltz - well preserved medieval castle in the Mosel valley region

At Arromanches in Normandy - part of the artificial barrier constructed that still stands constructed for WWII.

Mont St Michel in Normandy - amazing place to visit and totally worth the extra time.

Luke and Zee showing their manly calves, just like the Sun King did in his portrait.

3 - Opening my world view and that of my children - Never has the conflict in Israel/Palestine hit so close to home.  I have friends from Israel - who are intending to go back there very soon.  The Dutch are not some weird sect in Pennsylvania (which by the way - those are Pennsylvania Deutsch - GERMANS - not Dutch - just learned that moving here.  Feel free to laugh at my ignorance!), but friends I have made here.  I understand so much more about other cultures and my kids have truly broadened their minds to accept others in a way that no book could have done. (Although if you cannot live overseas, books are a GREAT start.)

4 - Public transportation - As I write this, I am still in my pajamas, but my kids are all safely off to school on the UBahn (like the subway trains, but this one is above ground).  That's right - I am drinking coffee, and typing away, and my boys all caught the tram to school.  LOVE IT!!!  (I have been known - more than once - to hit the carpool line at Clemson Elementary in the morning in pajamas, but I could hide in my big van.  Not so with my little red Opal Zafira here!)

I love this picture of my friend Colleen escorting Zee and her boys to school on the tram.    So grateful for her and her family and that they are such great neighbors!!

A Clarkson family Flat Stanley came to visit us!  Zee was showing him how to get on the tram.

You know you love it.  And it seats 7!  (Although it is a bit cramped then, right,  Papa??)

5 - Visitors coming - Honestly, it is such a joy to have people come and show them around our area, or the neighboring cities.  When Paul came, he surprised me by saying wherever I wanted to go, that sounded good to him.  So we went to Bonn to Beethoven's house!  No amount of bribery could have pulled my kids there (well, Silas would have gone for the math museum, but not for Beethoven's house).  And it was just a little over an hour train ride away - we were back just after school got out!  (As I type this, my cousin sleeps upstairs in Silas's room.  She is here for her fall break and I'm so excited to explore with her.  Wondering if I should wake her up??  :-) )

Brett moves to Germany for the year!

Paul and I visit Beethoven's house in Bonn.

Does this look like a German town or what?  Cute Bacharach along the Rhine - eating  döners with Nana and Papa.

Finally found this picture!!  Loved when Kelly and John came - and Harper!!

6 - History surrounding me - I love history.  I actually lamented when they removed the Calhoun House from the tour I gave at Clemson University.  It was my favorite part.  And now I live within walking/biking distance of 2 castles, one a pink palace with a moat, and one a crumbling ruin along the Rhein.  I am hoping to take my cousin (here visiting while she studies abroad in Athens) to tour our historic little town of Kaiserswerth where Florence Nightingale began her training, where the Holy Roman Emperor Barbarossa slept, where battles were waged and fought over this small little, but vital piece of the region.  And that is just where I LIVE.  That speaks nothing of Rome, Paris, Normandy, Bruges, Amsterdam, and all the history that I have been able to SEE.  I had no concept of what Corrie Ten Boom's "Hiding Place" was.  But now, I completely understand.  I even saw where the rations were hidden that gave them away.  What a blessing for someone who loves history.  What a privilege to see Flanders Field, and be moved by the events of WWI like I never could have before visiting the fields and Tyne Cot cemetery.  Or seeing the vast beaches of Normandy, and truly being amazed by what those boys did.  I have forgotten pages and pages of event details I learned in the past, but these images with smells, sounds, and space are more firmly planted in my mind.

Historic Kaiserswerth and the castle ruins on the Rhine

Normandy - gun batteries set up by the Germans - this one was actually  badly damaged by the Allied Forces.

7 - The beer - never have liked it before Germany.  ;-)

8 - The people - I have gotten to know so many people here, through the International School the boys attend, and through having great neighbors.  And I have so enjoyed the community this school creates - we are all mostly expats, and almost every family has one stay-at-home parent.  I think a lot of people here didn't have that opportunity before moving here because both parents worked or they were from larger cities, etc.  Of course, Clemson is similar in this respect - or at least with that small-town community feel.  And if you have experienced church at DCF, then you also have experienced that community sense.  But it is nice to find something similar here and meet people from all over the world in the process.

This is almost just like an earlier post I did about things I like about living here.  But I wanted to at least update the blog a bit now.  I am going to go back and insert some pictures.  This is so word-heavy, I don't even want to re-read it.  

Peace of Christ to you all this day.

**UPDATE:  Thanks to some help from friends, I was able to add a few more pictures.  I have to figure out this Picasa thing a bit better.  So I can add more pictures to future blogs.